Laguna de San Ignacio


BAJA, DAY 3 – Su 1/30: Guerrero Negro > Laguna de San Ignacio, Baja California Sur (34,436.5)

Just before heading to Baja, I was at an RV park in Yuma, and my neighbors were a Canadian couple from Montréal. They told me about the Laguna de San Ignacio, a wide bay where grey whales were calving this time of year.

In the third day of my journey, I decided to check it out for myself. After driving more than 30km down a dirt road past several whale-watching camps I came to the end of the Earth, near the mouth of the Laguna. Someone had lined the pull offs with white shells, and in the center of it all was a white starfish pattern.

I was miles – or, kilometers – from any other human. My boondock site overlooked the bay, and had whalebones for a fire circle. Far out on the water, I could see gray whales spouting, and I could hear their forceful exhalations.

I set a fire and watched the sun light the sky on fire as it set. An ethereal, spiritual experience…

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